First-Timers Cycling in the Algarve

We did this trip in October 2024, right after spending a week in Spain. We ended that leg in Seville (amazing city, by the way, with flamenco, orange trees, the whole deal). 

Then came the Portugal part: the agency arranged a private transfer to Tavira, which was honestly a blessing because we were pretty done with figuring things out by then. And being first-timers on a self-guided tour was a bit nerve-wracking as it is….

As we got to Tavira in the late afternoon, it instantly felt different… quieter, more laid-back. Cute streets, tiled buildings, warm light everywhere. You know when a place just has a good vibe? 

We checked in at the hotel, freshened up, and decided to go out for dinner. And yeah, here comes the shame — we went for pizza. First night in Portugal, and went for Italian. Still, it hit the spot. Quick walk around town after that (the Roman bridge looked cool lit up at night), and then we called it — we had a big ride coming.

Day 1: Bikes, Birds & GPS Panic (That Turned Out Fine)

We kicked things off with breakfast and then met Rodrigo, the bike guy — super chill, super efficient. He rolled up with our trekking bikes, helped us adjust the seats, gave us the gear, and added phone holders to the bikes (fancy!).

Now, confession: we’d never used GPS for cycling before. 

I was fully expecting it to crash, freeze, or start shouting directions in Swedish. But… it worked. Like, really well. The app was smooth, the instructions we’d been sent were spot-on, and suddenly, we weren’t worried at all. Thank God.

The castle sits up on a hill with great views over the town. It’s got parts that date back to the Moorish period, and you can actually climb up the walls and walk along the ramparts, which we did, of course. From the top, you get a full view of Tavira’s terracotta rooftops, the Gilão River, and the coast beyond. Apparently, the site has seen everything from Phoenicians to Romans to Moors, and it was even rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. Not bad for a quick stop on Day 1.

We rode along the edge of Ria Formosa Natural Park, a big lagoon system that runs along the coast. It’s got bays, little inlets, birds flying around — super peaceful. The real magic, though, is further down near Faro, where we’d heard you can sometimes spot flamingos. That’s for later in the trip, but already we were excited.

After the ride, we rolled back to the hotel, showered off the sunscreen-and-dust combo, and went out for dinner. This time, we redeemed ourselves from the pizza incident the night before.

We had grilled fish, something green on the side, and pointed at a random dish the waiter recommended. No clue what it was — but it was amazing. Obrigada, Portugal. Add two glasses of wine, and just like that, we were fully in vacation mode.

Day 2: Waterfalls and (this time Portuguese) flavors

We’d never done a cycling holiday like this before, so when the instructions said “just leave your suitcase at reception,” I was like… ok?? Fingers crossed. I left it there, hoped for the best, and off we went with just snacks, water, and a “we’ll see what happens” attitude. (Spoiler: the bag totally made it.)

The ride to Vale das Gralhas started off mellow — flat roads, little villages, barely any traffic. Pretty ideal. But it was hot. Like “sweat-through-your-shirt-by-10am” hot. So when we saw a waterfall sign off the route, we didn’t hesitate.

Total jackpot. Cold, clear water, a few locals chilling, full shade. We jumped in instantly. Then someone told us about another waterfall just around the corner — and yep, we went there too. Two swims before lunch? That’s how every ride should go.

Next stop: Olhão for lunch. We found a local joint with a shaded patio and zero tourists, ordered cataplana (seafood stew magic), and it BLEW OUR MINDS. Clams, fish, garlic, tomatoes, all bubbling in this copper pot. We cleaned the bowls with fresh bread like animals. Zero regrets.

The final stretch was laid-back — some gravel paths through Ria Formosa, a few more scenic stops — and when we rolled into our next hotel, guess what? Suitcases were already there. Magic.

Day 3: Mountains, White Villages & Palaces in Estoi

Today we swapped the flat coastal vibes for a ride toward the Algarve mountains. Roads were quiet, scenery was textbook: olive groves, cork trees, and those classic white houses with red tiles.

Around mid-ride, we stopped in the tiny hamlet of Fialho, where we met this guy, who was pruning his lemon trees in the back yard. We ended up chatting over baskets of figs he offered. In his broken English, he told us we were heading toward Arrife de Estoi, a small museum/gallery in nearby Estoi, so we decided to check it out.

Estoi turned out to be a charming town, with narrow lanes, neat white houses, and a bit of grandeur thanks to the Palácio de Estoi, an impressive 19th-century neo‑Rococo masterpiece set in lovely gardens. We didn’t go inside (no time), but just seeing it from the outside made us feel like we’d stumbled across a secret palace.

The route took us past a couple more quintas (rural estates) and stretches of flat, open road where it felt like we were floating in a painting—just us, our bikes, and the breeze.

We rolled into Querença by mid-afternoon—a real mountain village vibe. It’s quieter up here and feels like the end of the world (in a good way). We found a cozy café, had cold drinks, and congratulated ourselves on another perfect day of riding. Luggage had already arrived again (hooray), so now it was shower time and pre-dinner wine!

Day 4: Springs, Figs & That Random Swim Spot

This was hands-down our favorite day of the whole trip.

We kicked things off, leaving Querença under a nice cloudy sky (finally!). The Algarve inland can really roast you, so having a break from the sun felt like nature saying, “You’re welcome.”

First stop: Salir. We weren’t sure what to expect, but it ended up being such a pleasant surprise. The village is quiet and cute, with the ruins of the Castle of Salir sitting abovethe town. There’s not much of the castle left, but the views are totally worth the climb. We had lunch in Salir, grabbed something simple but tasty at a little café, and were just about to leave when we ended up chatting with a couple from Louisiana, of all places. They were hiking through the region, and it was such a fun, random encounter in a place that felt like the middle of nowhere. They pointed out they have really loved it in Alte, a town close by - we checked the maps and we are heading right there! Awesome!

Once there, it’s fair to say it swept us off our feet. Whitewashed houses, cobbled streets, tiled chimneys, flowers everywhere. Seriously, it felt like someone built a postcard, and we rode right into it. We visited the church in the main square — quiet and beautiful inside — then followed the commotion of locals down to the water.

Alte has these natural canals you can swim in, and cute little stone bridges crisscrossing the stream. We were loving it already, but then we walked a little further and hit the jackpot: Queda do Vigário, a small waterfall with a swimming area at the bottom. No tourists, just a few local kids jumping off rocks and the sound of water echoing through the trees. We jumped in, too, obviously.

The rest of the ride took us past Barragem do Funcho, a calm reservoir tucked into the hills. We didn’t stop long, but it looked peaceful. Would’ve been a great spot for a siesta if we weren’t still buzzing from Alte.

We rolled into Vale Fuzeiros in the late afternoon, legs tired but very, very happy.

Day 5: Rivers, Castles & Lagos

We left Vale Fuzeiros feeling like pros at this point — snacks packed, GPS ready, legs warmed up. The sun was back today, but not brutal, and the landscape started changing again as we made our way toward the coast.

Early on, we stopped at the Arade Dam, which was way more impressive than expected. Massive reservoir, super still water, and views that made us pause and just stare for a while. It was one of those "let’s sit here for five minutes that turns into twenty" kind of spots.

The route followed the Arade River, winding through valleys and quiet roads until we reached Silves. And wow — what a place. It’s this historic Moorish town with a huge red sandstone castle perched on a hill. 

We parked the bikes and wandered through the old town, grabbed a small lunch, and did a little “we’re in a castle town in Portugal right now” moment of appreciation. The streets were lively but not crowded, and we loved the vibe.

After Silves, we passed through a few small villages — including Odiáxere — nothing flashy, but full of charm and sleepy afternoon quiet. The kind of places where time slows down, and everyone waves as you ride by.

And then… the coast! After days inland, that first glimpse of the ocean felt epic. We reached Meia Praia, this giant stretch of sandy beach just outside Lagos, and we couldn’t wipe the grins off our faces. We didn’t swim (too tired and too hungry), but we did kick off our shoes, walk barefoot on the sand, and just take it all in. That really felt nice. 

Coming into Lagos felt like a celebration. It’s busy, lively, full of restaurants and music, and people in beach mode. We checked in, found our luggage waiting (as always), and headed out for a big dinner with everything — seafood, wine, dessert, and a toast to the last night of the ride.

Day 6: Cliffs, Caves & One Epic Finish Line

Last day on the bikes! Hard to believe, honestly. We were a little sore (okay, a lot sore), but also totally pumped. One more ride! And what a ride it turned out to be.

We headed out of Lagos, and immediately the vibe changed. The landscape went from beachy to wild and rugged, with dramatic cliffs and huge ocean views popping up around every corner. It felt like nature turned the volume up for our final day.

We stopped at Ponta da Piedade, and holy wow — those rock formations! Cliffs, arches, caves, and water so clear and turquoise it looked fake. We parked the bikes, climbed around a bit, and just stared. Probably took about 300 photos. No regrets.

The route kept us close to the coast, weaving through quiet villages, bumpy trails, and wide open views. It was one of those “I can’t believe we’re actually doing this” kind of days. Tired legs? Yes. But the scenery made it easy to forget.

And then we made it to Sagres. Windy, wild, wide open. It felt like the edge of the world. And for good reason: from there, we had the option to ride a little further to Cape St. Vincent, the southwesternmost point of Europe. So, of course, we did it.

Standing at the cape, staring at the endless Atlantic, we felt a mix of everything — tired, proud, salty, windblown, a little emotional, and very, very hungry.

We celebrated that night with one last feast (plus dessert, because obviously), talking about all the little moments from the week, the waterfalls, the figs, the pizza-on-night-one disaster, all of it. What a ride.

Ok… Final thoughts…

The Algarve Cycling Holiday was our first time doing a self-guided tour, and our first time in Portugal, so honestly, a lot could have gone wrong. But everything just… worked. Smoothly.

The accommodations were cozy, clean, and always ready for us at the end of the day. Our luggage magically appeared at each new hotel. The bikes were comfy, zero issues all week, and the GPS tracks were spot-on. 

Huge thanks to Lan, who was always available from the start and super helpful before and during the trip, and to Rebeka, who popped in with check-ins to make sure everything was going smoothly. That personal touch made all the difference. Thank you!

Beatrice D.